a cultural adventure in a land of myths and legends
We ended our first day's visit on a nearby farm, where we had a discussion with an old Venda man, who is apparently between 96 and a 105 years old. A wealth of knowledge was shared by this man who has experienced many changes in this region. Our day was ended by a friendly barbeque (braai) organised by Marius and other townsfolk involved in tourism at Carousel Lodge. This reinforced our impression of the hospitality of the people in this region.
We spend the next day in the Njelele valley (between Toyandou and Makhado) following the trail of the great legends of the vhaVenda with Johan Kloppers of Eagle Adventures. Johan's company is named after Billy Eagle, a Canadian Indian that came with the Royal Canadian Infantry during the Anglo Boer War in the 1900 and decided to stay in the area after the war was over. He was apparently appointed as a police constable and tracker at the nearby Elim police station. One day while he was in the Soutpansberg on horseback, he was attacked by a lion which pulled him of his horse. He then proceeded to kill the lion with his bare hands, a feat which hasn't ever been repeated. Billy Eagle later succumbed to the infections in his wound with the absence of any antibiotics during that time but went on to become a legend in the area.
Our first visit in the morning was to an area Johan calls the Lost Valley' with its strange terraces built by the VhaVenda over centuries and where some reoccupation has taken place through the years. The hills in the area are covered by age-old rock terraces stretching for miles and miles and are indicative of the origins of the vhaVenda nation. The Khoi and San who used to stay in this area, as well as other original indigenous southern African nations never used the terrace method. Other nations in Central Africa used to use this method and it was obviously brought down with the vhaVenda nation when they migrated from the great lakes of Central Africa. It is also within this context that we can talk about the so-called lost tribe of Israel - the Balemba. The Lemba nation has refined eastern features and current research is done to see if there is any link between them and Israel. The Lemba was culturally very strong and still today only Venda men can marry a Lemba woman and not vice versa. A Venda man can wed a Lemba women only after a certain ceremony has been completed. A fire is made on top of an anthill (big enough to fit a man underneath) and the Venda man has to then climb through this hot anthill. In this Lost Valley' we also saw some original African dogs - the so-called Nguni dogs as well as original African Nguni cattle. Both these species have adapted to the African environment successfully, and are hardy to African diseases.
Dzata 2 Ruins was our second stop. These ruins originated from the Thoyandou era, and were build with hard blue rocks, which apparently are not found in the area. Speculation exists that these rocks were carried on the heads of slaves coming all the way from Central and North Africa. Dzata 2 was reconstructed by archeologists and although some of the original walls are still standing some significant changes has been made to this site. Dzata 1, currently investigated by scientists hasn't been changed and is still in its original state.We then went on to look at the sacred "Lake Fundudzi" situated in the Thathe Vondo forest, the home of the mythical python and white crocodile. The python is the god of fertility in the vhaVhenda tradition and the legend tells us that a VhaVhenda man had a broken heart because of the loss of a great love. In his sorrow he walked into Lake Fundudzi at which time he turned into a python. Young virgin Venda maidens still perform the famous Domba-python dance in this area to honour this god of fertility. We can further speculate about the white crocodile (as described previously) which the vhaVenda's belief lives in this Lake. This crocodile might have really existed because this Lake is still today inhabited by large crocodiles, and an albino crocodile might have once lived in the lake where young, virgin Venda maidens were once offered to them. Lake Fundudzi is surrounded by mountains and special permission has to be obtained to visit this sacred Lake. No-one washes or swims in this lake.
Also in the Thathe Vondo forest is the so-called "Sacred Forest". The Thathe Vondo forest has giant hardwoods (jakkelsbessie, yellowwood), a wide variety of ferns, creepers and a wealth of plants and trees which makes the forest nearly impenetrable on foot. The Sacred Forest is a mystical place, where no ordinary VhaVhenda people may walk and as a visitor one may not walk off the dirt track going through the forest - hikers are not allowed. In the Sacred Forest two mythical creatures keep guard namely the white lion (the spirit of Nethathe an important chief) and the thunder and lighting bird called Ndadzi which according to myths flies on the wings of thunder. One can speculate further about this bird and its origin, and the origin of the vhaVhenda people. Can we make a comparison between this bird and similar mythical birdlike figures in North Africa (Egypt)? Ndadzi's eyes flash lighting, from in its beak it bears rain and when it drops an egg at a foot of a tree this tree will be destroyed by fire. As previously stated, myths, religion and believes have their origin in how a specific society experiences their environment at a specific time. Myths always have their origin in an experienced reality. Some important chiefs from the Thathe clans have apparently been reburied (according to believe) in a cave in this forest, protected by the white lion and Ndadzi. One can also find the giant edible mushrooms, Nkoa in these woods, with a diameter of approximately 300 cm on top.
Our day was ended by looking down onto the Vando Dam and its surrounding valley with many unanswered questions and many myths to still explore on a next visit including that of the waterfall spirits, the ivory traders, the copper people, the sacred Albasini treasures, the golden rhino, the rain queen, the holy baboons of Lwamondo, the blue beads of Egypt and the ancient ruins of Mukumbani.
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Sandboarding the West Coast in South Africa
Mention boarding in South Africa and I’ll bet the last image that comes to mind will be of a snowboarder laying fresh tracks along a virgin slope. Local adrenaline junkies are however swopping sand for snow, so there’s no need to book that return ticket to Kitzbuhel just yet.If you happen to head out along the curve and swerve of that beautiful strip of tarmac tripping past Gordon’s Bay and Rooi Els, you’ll eventually encounter a turn-off to a small dorpie by the name of Pringle Bay. Hit a hard right here and take a slow cruise along the main drag until the tar road peters out into an eroded strip of red dust and stone.
Right about now you should notice the looming presence of a monster of a mountain, topped with a formidable overhang, skylining away to your left. And rising up from the Cape coastal plains like a scene from the movie Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, you’ll see the trippy colours and low slung buildings of the legendary Hangklip Hotel, haunt of the hardebaarde of the Cape South Coast.
It is within the shade of this monolithic mountain that giant crayfish dwell and gargantuan great whites cruise the big blue. Step beyond the hotel stoep and you might encounter sharks of a different kind - hard-drinking students and perlemoen divers prop up the bar while innocent-looking sylphs circle the pool table in short dresses, waiting to take you for a fast fifty bucks quicker than you can flick a Bic.
Now, if you are planning on getting in a full day of sandboarding, mutter a few Hail Mary’s and drive on past, avoiding this horribly addictive watering hole and instead continuing along the dirt road traversing the coastline towards Betty’s Bay. As you round the mountain, towering dunes of white sand will hove into view below the rugged peak of Hangklip, presenting you with a selection of premium grade sandboarding slopes.
On my first day of play in the dunes, we had never heard of stand-up sandboarding and whatever equipment came to hand had to suffice (in this case, it was a boogie board, although we later twigged that a smooth length of plywood does the job even better). All you need to do is step onto the lower slopes and face up to gravity as you skyline for a killer view across the False Bay coast line.
And trust me on one thing; a dune always seems three times higher when you’re standing at the top than it does before you start the long and winding climb. But once you’ve peaked, it’s a wild ride all the way - get down on your stomach and bite the bullet as you slither and slide your way down the smooth face of the dune before trekking to the top again.
If you decide to not go solo, hook up with one of the many recognised sandboarding operators you will find wherever high dunes line the South African landscape. Here we’re talking a completely different ball (or shall I say board?) game though, with specially manufactured sandboards borrowing heavily from current snowboarding trends. With their design firmly rooted in powder culture (with a dash of surf thruster mixed in for good measure), stand-up sandboards combine the exhilaration of surfing with the kick-ass attitude associated with carving through a virgin snowfield.
A big plus is the fact that sandboarding is an accessible, four-season activity that does not require a huge investment in cold-weather gear - all you need are boots, bindings and a board (and maybe a peak cap and a generous lathering of sun screen. An added bonus for cash-strapped South Africans is that sandboarding offers the perfect practice ground in which to hone your snowboarding skills before hitting those northern hemisphere slopes. (Believe me, it will be a huge boost to your ego to not spend half the holiday looking like a pillock along the kiddies’ slope).
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Dirty Boots
The waters south-west of the Cape of Good Hope offer some of the finest Big Game Fishing in the world.
The warm Agulhas current of the Indian ocean meets the cold Benguela current of the South Atlantic ocean at Cape Point, providing prolific catches of Yellowfin and Longfin Tuna as well as Yellowtail, Dorado and Atlantic Big Eye Tuna. Our waters are also blessed with an abundance of Broadbill Swordfish "the gladiator of the deep". Broadbill Swordfish are more easily caught at night.
The Cape of Good Hope has earned a reputation for being a hotspot in the world for Big Game Deep Sea Fishing. Longfin ( Albacore ) and Yellowfin Tuna range generally from 9 to 99 kg. Often the big Yellowfin Tuna prove to be more agony than ecstasy for its pure fighting stamina taking sometimes 3 hours to boat. Dorado and Yellowtail are generally in the 5 to 15 kg class and it is an unwritten law that Broadbill Swordfish of under 100kg, are released.
Although the Cape of Good Hope is not known for Marlin, some numbers have been caught. They are occasionally sighted and lucky is the angler who may have the good fortune to hook one of these exotic tropical billfish. For REEF FISHING, False Bay is a fisherman's El Dorado.
The reefs of Rocky Bank, some six miles south of Cape Point, as well as Whittle Rock situated almost in the centre of False Bay, together with the shoreline off Strandfontein, offer good catches of Cape Salmon, Yellowtail, Elf (shad/bluefish), Snapper, Bream, Makerel, White and Red Stumpnose as well as Red Roman. Snoek, which in appearance is very similar to the Barracuda, are also in abundance, as are Squid.
Some three miles off Strandfontein, lies Seal Island, which has the largest concentration of Cape Fur Seals south of Namibia. Great White Shark are often sighted and can be a nuisance by snatching the fish hooked by anglers operating in that area.
During the months of September to November, Southern Right Whales are ever present in False Bay, as well as Dolphin throughout the year. Most times, charter boats operating out of Simon's Town, catch crayfish en route, affording anglers, in season, a complimentary scrumptious crayfish banquet at sea. Straight out of the water, into the pot. One also offers Clay Pigeon Shooting as an optional extra attraction.
Bluffers Guide To: How to fake at Rock Climbing
Article by Jacques Marais
Photo of Justin Hawkins in Mallorca
Why:
Imagine the scenario. There’s this long-legged blonde who lives across the road, and you’ve been trying for months to make eye contact with her. Today’s your lucky day; she’s managed to lock herself out of her building and is staring forlornly up at the second-floor balcony. The only obstacle between you and her eternal gratitude is a 10m shimmy up a rickety drain pipe …
Ask the Pro:
If you want to know how to get to grips with gravity, Justin Hawkins is the right man to speak to. He’s Numero Uno in South Africa when it comes to bouldering, and has recently climbed a route that has so far been classified as ‘impossible’ by international climbers. “Problem is”, he says, “if you want to get into climbing to impress the girls, you’re setting yourself up for a fall. Rather work on your pick-up lines – they’re a lot easier to master than climbing skills”.
The Look:
“When you’re not stuck in between a rock and hard place, board shorts, a tee (preferably from an international climbing comp) and slops will do the trick. If you’re doing the climbing thing, opt for protection against the elements without sacrificing your style (after all, you need to be able to pull off a spade on that amazed Norwegian tourist once you’ve summited Table Mountain). Mix a technical shirt with lightweight cargo pants (from Volcom), and top the look off with Spy eyewear”.
The Gear:
“Spend your bucks on where you will be in contact with the rock. First off, you need good shoes (La Sportiva boasts the best rubber and grip) as well as a good brand of chalk (try 8c). Other than this, you’re basically looking at safety, so you’d want to keep it light. Opt for a 60m length of 9.5mm Roca rope to keep your head off the deck if you fall, and invest in DMM Double Mamba carabiners (they’re light and have a good clipping action). Your final must-have item is a harness (stick to Roca), and now you’re set to take on the great outdoors”.
Talk the Walk:
Running it out: The distance between yourself and your last protection placement - the further the
distance, the longer the run-out.
Gripped: the feeling you get when you really run it out (ie. shitting yourself)
Gapers: the people standing at the bottom of the crag who ask whether you’re abseilers.
Dyno: A dynamic jump, when all your points of contact leave the rock.
Cool Moves: How to bust out a dyno
“A ‘dyno’ becomes necessary when the distance between two holds is so far that it forces the climber to jump. Firstly position your feet straight below you and as high up as possible, as this is your main force of thrust. Starting the movement, your arms should be straight and your legs bent almost as if you’re crouching. Then "wind up", slowly bouncing to find your rhythm, before releasing and propelling yourself upwards, keeping your eyes focused on the target hold. Hopefully you stick …”
Worst Possible Faux Pas:
Don’t talk about that abseil you did last week - abseiling is not a sport, it is what you do to get down the face that you’ve just climbed.
Where to hang out:
The Olifantshuis in Clanwilliam - sanctuary from the campsite and home to the world’s best bouldering area. With a double Vodka and Red Bull kicking in at R15, you can’t go wrong. Many a night has ended dancing with the mounted kudu head as Kurt Darren rips it up on the decks, or being chased down the main drag by an irate farmer in his Bantam for checking out his bokkie.
Who da man?:
Fred Nicole: Swiss godfather of bouldering and founder of Rocklands
Bernt Zongrle: Austrian strong-man, opened some of the world’s hardest bouldering routes
Chris Sharma: An American legend who opened the world’s hardest climb
South Africa's most revered set of animals
The phrase Big Five Game was coined by game hunters and refers to the five large mammals that were originally most sought in Africa. The term is still used in most tourist and wildlife guides that discuss African wildlife.
The collection consists of the lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros. The members of the big five were chosen for the difficulty in hunting them and not their size, which is why the leopard is on the list and the enormous hippopotamus (noted for lazing around in pools and rivers all day) is absent.
The male lion, easily recognized by his mane, may weigh up to 250 kg (550 lb). Females are much smaller, weighing up to 136 kg (300 lb). In the wild lions live for around 10–14 years, while in captivity they can live over 20. Lions are predatory carnivores who live in family groups, called prides. The family consists of related females, their cubs of both sexes, and one or more unrelated males who mate with the adult females.
Although it was once thought that females did most of the hunting in the pride, it is now known that males contribute much more to hunting than the amount for which they had been previously given credit. Both males and females will defend the pride against outside intruders. Typically, males will not tolerate outside males, and females will not tolerate outside females. Males are expelled from the pride or leave on their own when they reach maturity. When or if a male coalition takes over a pride and ousts the previous coalition, the conquerors often kill any cubs that they did not father.
Like all other cats, lions are superpredators, but unlike all other cats they are social hunters and take prey too large and dangerous to overpower singly, including adult zebras, cape buffalo, giraffes, hippopotamuses, and even sub-adult elephants. Singly, a lion kills with the neck bite that breaks the neck or severs vital blood vessels; several lions may pin a large prey animal while another delivers the lethal neck bite or suffocates the prey by covering the victim's muzzle, preventing breathing. Lions are not averse to scavenging, and they frequently drive off smaller or outnumbered predators from kills and take the prey. Lions too can be driven off from prey by such competitors as hyenas and wild dogs in overwhelming numbers. Like other cats they have superb night vision that makes them more effective at night. They can sleep as many as 20 hours in a day.
Although it was once thought that lionesses did the bulk of the hunting and killing, it is now known that male lions contribute far more than they were originally given credit for. As a rule, all of the females of a pride are related (grandmothers, aunts, mothers, sisters). Both males and females defend the pride.
African Elephants have a thick, almost hairless skin, a long, flexible, prehensile trunk, upper incisors forming long curved tusks of ivory, and large fan-shaped ears.
Elephants are herbivores, spending 16 hours a day collecting plant food. Their diet is at least 50% grasses, supplemented with leaves, twigs, bark, roots, and small amounts of fruits, seeds and flowers. Because elephants only use 40% of what they eat they have to make up for their digestive system's lack of efficiency in volume. An adult elephant can consume 300 to 600 pounds (140 to 270 kg) of food a day. 60% of that food leaves the elephant's body undigested.
In the wild, elephants exhibit complex social behavior and strong familial bonds. Most females will live in family groups with up to 200 mothers, daughters and sisters. Males, on the other hand, are commonly found living alone or in smaller ( up to 20) temporary bachelor groups. Social hierarchy in calf-cow groups is based on size and age, with the largest and oldest at the top and the smallest and youngest coming in last. Adolescent males determine their own ranking order through jousting contests using head and tusks, where strength and temperament are as important as size and age. Generally, though, males are very tolerant of each other. The exception is when a female is in estrus. Bulls will roam from female group to group, staying with a specific female in estrus for a couple of days to ensure fertilization and will have no part in raising the calf. Females in estrus try not to court males, but usually choose a mate based on size and dominance, which tends to be a male in musth.
They communicate with very low and long-ranging subsonic tones.
Elephants, especially males, have been known to knock down trees and bushes when excited, socially pressured, or when looking for food.
Leopards are large, ferocious cats having either tawny fur with dark rosette-like markings and are the epitomy of elegant cats. They often eat and store food in trees. They range in size from 1 to almost 2 metres long, and weigh between 30 and 70 kg. Females are typically around two-thirds the size of males.
Most leopards are light tan or fawn with black spots, but their coat color is highly variable. The spots tend to be smaller on the head, larger and have pale centres on the body.
Originally, it was thought that a leopard was a hybrid between a lion and a panther, and the leopard's common name derives from this belief; leo is the Latin for lion, and pard is an old term meaning panther. In fact, a "panther" can be any of several species of large felid. In North America panther means puma. In South America a panther is a jaguar. Elsewhere in the world a panther is a leopard. Early naturalists distinguished between leopards and panthers not by color (a common misconception), but by the length of the tail - panthers supposedly having longer tails than pards (leopards).
A black panther is a melanistic leopard (or melanistic jaguar). These have mutations that cause them to produce more black pigment (eumelanin) than orange-tan pigment (pheomelanin). This results in a chiefly black coat, though the spots of a black panther can still be discerned in certain light as the deposition of pigment is different in the pattern than in the background. There are also white panthers.
Despite its size, this largely nocturnal and arboreal
predator is difficult to see in the wild. The best
location to see leopards in Africa is in the Sabi
Sand Private Game Reserve in South Africa, where
leopards are habituated to safari vehicles and
are seen on a daily basis at very close range.
A Laid-Back Getaway to Cape Town
With such a marvelous landscape, it is not surprising that Cape Town
has been voted as the third best city in the world for 2008. Not only
that it offers such attractive tourist landmarks, this place also tenders a wide selection of recreational activities suitable for
everyone with different interests. If you'd like to experience the
city's offerings but would like to relax in a more laid-back suburb
otherwise, then Lakeside is the best recommendation.
Lakeside
takes pride of the majestic panoramic views of the Constantia
Winelands, Devils Peak, and the other side of the False Bay coast. This
is actually situated on the tropical False Bay coastline just in the
middle of Muizenberg and West Lake suburbs. A famous residential area,
the rocky Steenberg Mountain serves as its scenic background while the
Zandvlei Lake gleams in the center.
The lake is always open for outdoor activities like canoeing, yachting and windsurfing.
There are also several first-class golf courses which will definitely make all golf
lovers' stay truly remarkable, all of them just within the Lakeside
vicinity. For those seeking for adventures, activities such as hiking,
mountain biking and water sports are always available. Walking around
the nearby beaches at sunset is a relaxing way of ending a busy day at
the Lakeside.
On you way to the Lakeside is a wide array of the
most stunning shoreline on the Cape Peninsula. This coast stretches
across little seaside villages such as St. James to Simon's Town. If
you're lucky enough, you might even experience whale watching by the
end of winter until spring.
Cape Town is most commonly referred
to as the Mother City. It's a home of tourists' most sought-after
cuisine and world-class accommodation in South Africa.
It is
interesting to know that Lakeside is just a few minutes away from
Constantia wine route, thus providing an extraordinary experience with
few of the Cape's world class award-winning wines. This gorgeous valley
is the origin of South Africa's flourishing and world renowned wine
making industry.
Dirty Boots | Adventure Sports South Africa
You’ve seen it on tv – popularised by the dramatic Eco Challenge shows. You’ve been reading the adventure racing calendar comment and listings in Runner’s World. Procrastinate no longer. Welcome to the realm of adventure racing, a dynamic multi-discipline off-road sport.
Frequently people say, “I’m not fit enough”. What is fit? In running there’s 30-min 10km fit and there’s 60-min 10km fit. Ditto for AR. Honestly, in most races you walk more than you run, pushing your bike up a hill is not frowned upon, and for most, except the competitive, experienced teams AR is purely about the journey and getting to the finish.
And race distances range from 25km to over 500km. There is something for everyone – even the most hesitant. Just enter a race and take stock of your skills and abilities afterwards
MULTI-DISCIPLINE
Primary AR disciplines are mountain biking and trekking or hiking.
Paddling is common in races over 100km. The area in which the race is
held determines the type of water activity, whether it be tubing,
river, flat-water or sea kayaking, or white water rafting.
Rope skills are usually incorporated, supervised and assisted by rope
professionals. Abseiling features in most events with flying-fox
traverses and ascents only in races designed for more experienced
competitors.
As for navigation... this is the discipline that defines adventure
racing and differentiates it from multisport. Given maps and
coordinates of control points and transitions, teams plot their own
routes from start to finish.
Best Advice: In a race where the top teams have
comparable physical strengths, the winner will ultimately be the one
that chooses the best routes and is able to minimise their mistakes.
Hone your skills by regularly attending weekend orienteering events.
TEAM MATES
Although most races allow paired and 3-person
entries, the ‘classic’ AR format is a 4-person mixed-gender team where
at least one racer must be of the opposite gender. It does take a good
few months to find your ideal team combination, particularly when
forming a 4-person team for multi-day events.
Team dynamics are crucial and result not only in a successful race, but also in a happy, memorable experience.
Best Advice: It is not advisable to enter multi-day races
with your spouse, partner or long-term friends... if you want the
relationship to continue after the race. Gain some racing and team
experience first.
SUPPORT CREW
Most events are assisted, with support crews of
kind friends or family members who transport equipment to designated
transitions, prepare food for their team and administer
much-appreciated moral and emotional support. Their job is to feed you,
warm you, encourage you and then send you out into the cold darkness
with a pat on your back and motivating applause.
Best Advice: Support crew volunteers are precious angels.
Treat them like gold, cover their expenses for the event and don’t
leave your smelly socks lying around for them to pick up.
GEAR
Adventure racers love toys. Basics include a backpack (a
30l capacity will get you through everything), hydration system (a 2l
water reservoir is adequate), trail shoes, socks, shorts,
moisture-wicking top, cap, shades, mountain bike (with spare tubes,
pump and basic repair tools) and helmet. As you advance, gear
requirements and costs escalate.
Best Advice: Start off with a short summer race ((maximum
of 6-8hr) as they require minimal gear. Then, steadily add to your
toy-box with each event. Within a few years you’ll have a collection to
be proud of.
ADVENTURE RACING CLUBS
There are established clubs in Joburg, Pretoria, Cape Town,
Durban/Pietermaritzburg, Bloemfontein, George & Krugersdrop. They
all have monthly social meetings – a perfect environment to meet,
mingle and ask questions. Visit www.ar.co.za.
Adventure Holidays | 4 day Baviaanskloof Mountain bike Tour


Six flavours of dust
Dirty Boots Adventure Guide
Getaway magazine
By Rob House
Most motorcyclists dream of the 'big one' - the day they saddle up and ride beyond the corner pub. What happens when you stop dreaming and go where there are no roads?
It was 36°C and I was roasting in an insulated bike suit in the blazing sun.
I'd just fallen in deep sand for the fifth time in an hour. With only 800 kilometres behind me and another 5 000 to go to Zanzibar, I didn't know if I would make it through the day, let alone the next two weeks.
My passion for motorbikes was ignited by my father when I was barely knee high to a grasshopper. He took me roaring around on a little bike he claimed had been dropped by parachute during the war and, years later, gave me the keys to my first moped during the frozen stillness of an English winter. My fingers are still thawing, but the passion has never dulled. So when I met Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman at the end of their trans-African odyssey, The Long Way Down, I was inspired to try a similar adventure - but up, not down.
I hooked up with Albert Frank from GS Adventures, who was doing a trip from
Pretoria to Zanzibar via Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, Malawi and Tanzania. We'd be
riding fully kitted BMW 1200 Adventure bikes. These had served Ewan and Charlie
well, but they were far heavier and bulkier than the Suzuki Superbike parked in
my garage at home. With fuel, packed panniers and a rider, they topped 300
kilograms.
The trip was put together in a rush, but since I'd been riding motorbikes most of my life, I was confident I could manage. More than manage, actually. On the map it was just a couple of pages and the roads were reported to be fine - at the time, the miniscule off-road sections seemed hardly worth worrying about. There's nothing like overconfidence to leave your butt hanging….
First leg: Botswana
We barrelled north from Pretoria and the first border crossing into Botswana was a breeze. Nothing else would be.
After chilly Cape Town, I was faced with temperatures in the mid 30s. Prehistoric-looking hornbills became demented dive bombers and donkeys were cunningly camouflaged roadside stalkers. Everything was a bit Alfred Hitchcock-ish after a long day in the saddle.
On day two, we reached the Makgadikgadi Pans. The salt-baked earth covers an area the size of Portugal and is awe-inspiring in its vastness. The little off-road experience I'd had didn't begin to cover the 22 kilometres of insubstantial dust we had to cross to get there. The back end of my laden bike tried to overtake the front as I frantically attempted to follow Albert's lead. He bit the dust first. I saw him go and had a good chuckle until a wild weave on my steel bronco suddenly had me on the ground too.
Try lifting 250 kilograms of heavily laden bike out of soft sand in 36°C while wearing a spacesuit. I soon learned to sit on the bike, grab the handlebars and frame, and stand up slowly, using my legs as leverage. Gradually new skills emerged to make up for the hard lessons. 'Stand up, look up, open up,' was the mantra I chanted as the pan emerged from this dusty, frustrating and exhilarating training ground.
That night we camped on Lekhubu Island amid gnarled baobab trees that tangled another legendary sunset in their branches.
We drove back out into the shadeless expanse as the sun rose along with the temperature. GPS set, we headed into a post-apocalyptic wasteland.
Ntwetwe Pan is an immense and featureless expanse where dust devils breed in the hot desert air. The pan sounded like corrugated cardboard as we rode over it, standing high on our foot pegs. I glanced at Al and he gave a nod, as if he were reading my thoughts. We were floating on clouds, dancing in the dust, riding without reference in a land of horizons. It was intimidating, but there was a grin on my dry lips.
As the miles unravelled and my familiarity with the road and the bike grew, we became companions and fellow travellers. My death grip on the throttle eased into something akin to holding a child's hand and the tension dropped from my shoulders. Early frustrations caused less muttering, although the proximity of the BMW indicators to the horn left me signalling in silent annoyance at four-legged pedestrians. I was smiling more and frowning less. All the while, the road cooked and shimmered as we passed.
Zambia to Malawi
The Zambian border post at Katima Mulilo proved challenging. I hadn't realised I needed a visa. "Are you English " barked a vice admiral (judging by his epaulettes). I thought my passport had given this one away. "Thirty-five pounds!"
"In dollars " I asked. I didn't have any sterling. The vice admiral pointed to a dog-eared piece of paper taped to the wall. It showed $100 entry visa for Americans. "But I'm not American," I suggested. A short pause. "Sixty-five dollars!" he shot back. Close enough, I thought and coughed up quickly lest he change it to roubles.
However, that was just the beginning. The next one-and-a-half hours consisted of paperwork in triplicate with extinct carbon paper in a humid and airless back office to clear the motorbikes. As we left, the guards turned the air conditioning on. Nice touch, lads. We thought we were good to go, but we hadn't reckoned on 'carbon tax' and another back office. By now we were losing the light. Sign where How much Sure, great, whatever. Smile and wave.
We stopped at Livingstone and the Victoria Falls, replete in their thundering magnificence. Next morning, the park personnel allowed us to take our bikes into the national park above the falls for a quick photo shoot. Then we hit the long, long road to Lusaka. I was in my element. With open roads and growing confidence in my bike, I let my mind wander. The spent kilometres were littered with discarded thoughts; the road ahead fresh with new ones.
We chased a train towards Mazabuka, overtook it and stopped to photo-graph it passing. Fascinated children surrounded us as the train hooted and sped by. We caught up again as our BMW Boxer engines easily outpaced the old diesel.
We'd become something of a sideshow to bored passengers and waving hands were thrust out of windows as we stood high in the saddles, showboating for them.
Lusaka came and went and we were faced with the longest single stretch of the journey: 700 kilometres to South Luangwa National Park. We stopped only when necessary. A swig of blood-warm water here, a hurried photograph there. Bananas and cassava became commonplace, big bags of charcoal were stacked at roadside depots or carried on Africa's crazily weaving workhorse, the bicycle - yet another obstacle to avoid as we plunged ahead on rapidly deteriorating roads. It was hard to decide if the potholes held the road together or the other way round.

Some 600 kilometres later, full of dust and developing severe cases of pothole stare, we reached Chipata, close to the border of Malawi. Track & Trail River Camp was only another 120 kilometres away. We enquired about the best route at a petrol station and were directed to a dirt track. I couldn't believe my eyes.
"That's a direction, not a road!" We'd ridden for nearly eight hours and a gravel and sand road was the last thing I needed to see.
After 20 kilometres of teeth-rattling riding, we found a tarred road and punched the air in triumph. Finally we'd caught a break. A kilometre further, it ran out and 90 kilometres of rutted seat-of-the-pants riding lay ahead. The rest was a blur. Slide left, adjust right. Pothole in front, hazard lights on for Albert trailing in the dust. Sand trap, lean back and open up. Loose gravel, a washed away section ahead. A blood-red sun set directly ahead as we bounced and weaved into the night.
We reached Mfuwe and the Luan-gwa River in pitch darkness and found the lodge. The first beer evaporated at the bar, along with my remaining energy. I followed the guard towards my cabin but a crash of twigs and trees ahead stopped us in our tracks. Two hippos stampeded towards us.
I told myself, "Stay calm, I'm sure the guard has seen this dozens of times before, just follow his lead." I glanced to my left and saw a blur as he vanished. Shiiiiiiiiiiiit! I outpaced him and took up residence at the bar again.
Malawi to Tanzania
They say the secret of comedy is in the timing. How hilarious then, to head into Lilongwe on beautifully maintained roads and be directed into side streets and up dirt roads by police and army trucks, which effectively paralysed the city's traffic.
Why Because the presidents of Malawi and Rwanda were opening a new road. Behind schedule again, we had to change our plans. A hurried call to a friend in Blantyre and alternative accommodation was arranged a couple of hours north at Luwawa in the Viphya Forest Reserve.
Night falls fast in Africa. Within the hour it was as black as a raven's wing. Our speed dropped and the roadside closed in. Near invisible bicycles wobbled along the verge, throwing an occasional missed heartbeat into our paths. The engine sound was soporific, the temperature dropped and my concentration level sank. When the sign we were looking for appeared, we turned down a rutted track, only to find 12 kilometres of difficult dirt road still ahead. It almost broke me.
The early morning revealed a secret that the night had shrouded: we were deep in the pine forests of the Viphya. This is a place that looks more like Scotland than Africa. We wound our way through fragrant forests of pine and eucalyptus and rode past sawmills from another age. Vast tree trunks were being reduced to planks by sawing teams; one person stood above and one below a raised trunk, using giant two-handed saws.
As we entered Mzuzu, we met three fellow bikers heading south. These lads were all pilots from Switzerland and had begun their journey in Nairobi, heading for Cape Town. When I told them who we were and what we were doing, they looked slightly taken aback, then produced a dog-eared copy of Getaway. It had been their bible in preparing the Namibian leg of their journey.
We travelled on, purring down beautiful winding valleys near Rumphi where picturesque villages perched precariously on hillsides, descending further through steep switchback roads to Chiweta and our first sight of Lake Malawi and Sangilo Sanctuary. Ewan and Charley had apparently stopped here for a break on their journey. I felt a sense of kinship and toasted them with a Jameson's.
At Utengule Coffee Lodge just outside manic Mbeya, I eyed the pool speculatively. No such luck. Albert had discovered that we were only a stone's throw away from the Mbozi meteorite, at 12 tons the eighth largest on the planet. We found the visitor from outer space languishing on a hillside, while a couple of local lads tried to knock off a lump with a length of pipe and a chisel. Luckily their only reward was a dented chisel and a case of tennis elbow.

The next day, we slowed down for what we took to be a local pageant. The roadside was swarming with spectators for kilometres in both directions. It was a bus and a lorry in the worst accident I've ever seen. Subdued, we continued past parched fields of harvested maize that gave way to pine forests as we climbed to ear-popping heights. A little chap came belting down the road on a wooden scooter made of nothing more than off-cuts and ingenuity. His smile considerably lightened the sober mood.
Tanzania to Zanzibar
Manic is the word that came to mind while dodging the Dar es Salaam traffic. Perhaps our timing was wrong but, judging by the volume and variety of conjested traffic at this busy port, there probably is no good time. We fought our way through blaring horns and infuriated drivers to the port, where we saw the sea for the first time. Fat grins and high fives!
If you haven't caught a ferry into Zanzibar with two big bikes, you haven't lived. There is, I suspect, a genetic offshoot of the cross-border black marketeer: the Dar es Salaam port official. Haggling is a serious and considered business here. Our object was to get two BMW motorbikes to Zanzibar. Theirs was to see what we would be prepared to do to accomplish this.
Two hours and much discussion later, the bikes were strapped to the stern of the ferry and we were leaving port. Chugging into the swell a the sun slid into the sea, I relaxed for the first time that day and watched flying fish explode from our wake like small silver torpedoes. Perfect. Just then a door opened and a large sweaty gent emerged and threw up loudly into a small bag. He then proceeded to fill another. I turned up the volume on my iPod and tunelessly sang along: "Liiiife is an open road...."
You can hear Stone Town harbour long before you see it. Porters swarmed in looking for an easy touch and realised that Christmas had come early when they saw our bikes. Loading them had been difficult, but unloading them was almost impossible. Ships were disgorging passengers and cargo in a chattering stream as we eventually got astride our bikes, tired and still feeling the sway of the boat.
We rode dizzily through darkened villages, past small glowing cooking pots, to our rest stop on the other side of the island. I fell asleep fully clothed to the sound of the sea caressing an unseen beach.

In the morning, Albert and I hopped on the bikes and headed up the beach. It was one of the most spectacular rides of my life. Sporting huge grins, we rode past palm trees on the left and turquoise water and dhows on the right. The only hazard now was the occasional patch of seaweed or coral. Our final rest spot was the Michamvi Water Sports Resort owned by a South African husband and wife team, David and Nicole Lange.
A suntan was on the cards at last while the heroes of the journey, our BMW 1200s, rested in the shade of a palm tree.
I've pondered Ewan McGregor's fluttering hands when he tried to explain his trip as I've struggled to come up with my own explanation. Riding for 12 hours a day gave me time. It gave me time to put my life in order, to reset and hopefully not make the same mistakes I've made in the past. Time to grow a beard and discover that I now sport more grey than blonde - and that's just fine. After riding 5 890 kilometres in two weeks, I've had an adventure I'd only dreamt about previously - and have memories to last a lifetime.
Read Rob's blogs from his trip on Getaway.co.za. [Link: http://www.getaway.co.za/content/blog/categories.asp?category=Rob%20House]
Slack-packing Tsitsikamma
source: www.iafrica.com
The vantage point that made this view possible was Nademaalsnek, some 700 metres up the flank of the Tsitsikamma Mountains on the final push of a five-day hike that had led us through ancient forests and fecund spring fynbos. By then the expectation of the first day and the pain of the second had receded and we were high on slog-hardened muscles and Marinella's Italian cuisine.
On the map Tsitsikamma is that narrow, forested strip along the coast from Plettenberg Bay to Storms River. But don't be misled by the name, Tsitsikamma Trail, into believing you'll be ambling up the coast in the shade of coastal forest trees listening to the comforting roar of breakers. It's a mountain trail, pure and simple, with merely its little toe in the ocean.
It was a mixed party who'd begun the trail at Kalander Hut on the beach near Nature's Valley several days earlier, aged between 16 and 60 and with varying degrees of fitness.
"You thought it was a beach trail? You must be joking," said trail manager, Graeme Pienaar, as we peered at the map he'd handed us at the start of the hike which showed our path heading straight inland over closely stacked contours and round high peaks. "But don't worry, you'll be slackpacking.
"Just leave your stuff in the hut, and if you have food that needs to go in our freezer, label which hut you'd like it to appear in." We looked at the food and bedding piles emerging from the Chrysler Voyager we'd borrowed and grinned. This was definitely the way to do it.
Day 1: Kalander to Blaawkrantz — 14 km, 6 hours
The trail head was a new hut just behind the coastal dunes over the river from
Nature's Valley. Like all other accommodation we were to use, it's an attractive
log cabin with a separate kitchen shelter, a hot-water bucket shower and flush
toilets.
Only at Kalander, though, do you sleep to the roar of the breakers. As we packed
up for the night, a nosy genet came visiting and in the morning there were tracks
of Cape clawless otters on the beach.
The path led up steeply behind the hut onto Douwurmkop, then dived into a delicious
indigenous and blackwood forest draped in old man's beard. Fallen logs sported
ears of orange bracket fungi and a chorister robin-chat was living up to its
new name in the undergrowth.
About 10 kilometres from the start we lunched at Staircase Falls, a sheet of
glistening black
rock with a stream bounding down it into an inviting pool.
The hut, when it finally appeared beyond a pocket of forest, was perched on
a cliff above the Bloukrans River with glorious views of Formosa Peak, at 1650
metres the highest point in the range.
Our luggage was waiting for us, as were our provisions. After the luxury of
a warm shower, the aromas emanating from the lapa where one of our party was
beavering away over the fire, soon lured six hikers and a genet to a fish braai
with salads and some good Cape white wine.
Day 2: Blaauwkrantz to Keurbos — 13,4 km, 6 hours
Graeme had said this would be the easiest leg. It wasn't — despite being lightly loaded. The sun glared down and, though Buffelsbos Forest offered shade, most of the hike was in shadeless fynbos along the shoulder of the 1030-metre Klein Benebos Mountain, which seemed to trap the heat and roast the valley.
A welcome relief was the Bloukrans River where one of our party ripped off his clothes and plunged into the icy mountain waters. The rest of us applauded, but chickened out.
After clambering out of the river valley, a 500-metre contour offered about four kilometres of level hiking with some nasty hakea infestation among kolkol and heaths of erica, pelargoniums and giant proteas. Victorin's warblers sang us along our way. Then we dropped into the deliciously cool Benebos Forest, a riot of rooiels (Cunonia capensis), keurboom (Virgilla oroboides) and tree fuchsia (Schotia brachypetala).
When 12 tired feet finally stomped into Keurbos Hut, their owners would be roused only by butternut soup and pasta. And, yes, another genet visited.
Day 3: Keurbos to Heuningbos — 13,4 km, 6 hours
From Keurbos the path wound down to the Lottering River, which we crossed clutching a suspended chain. The day was chilly and threatened rain, but it held off and, as we tramped up Rushes Pass, more and more deep valleys appeared below.
From the neck the view was nothing but glorious, unpeopled mountains. Secretive, moist forests clustered in steep cleavages and orange-breasted sunbirds busied themselves in the fynbos.
From there the trail descended into a stream bed with water trickling over bright
yellow boulders, then led into a deep wood with its floor covered in wild pomegranate,
witch hazel and prehistoric seven-week ferns. A few more hill climbs and forest
plunges later the hut appeared and we scampered into the lapa as the rain finally
came down.
While Marinella, our Italian hiker, prepared a meal we'd never forget, the birders traded sightings. Amethyst sunbird, olive bush shrike, black-backed puff-back, red-billed wood hoopoe, Knysna turaco, jackal buzzard, Victorin's warbler, southern boubou, scaly-throated honeyguide, black-headed oriole, Cape rock thrush, Knysna woodpecker, chorister robin-chat.... They were happy.
We ate Teglia di cecci (chickpea and pork stew) and Italian salad, drank cheap, boxed red wine that tasted like a fine claret and finished off with dark French chocolate. Then we passed out. The only sounds that penetrated the night were the gentle hoot of a wood owl, the scuffle of bushpigs and the pitter-patter of a spotted genet.
Day 4: Heuningbos to Sleepkloof — 14,2 km, 7 hours
The map suggested we were in for a rough day so we got up early despite a few throbbing heads. Soon we were puffing up Splendid Pass. Behind us were the nested, Russian-doll saddles, but ahead looked like trouble.
The path plunged into a forest and emerged beyond it on a slope that went up
and up into the sky. Nademaalsnek, the map informed us, was 700 metres high
and 10 kilometres from the day's start. We made it, eventually, and gazed into
the gorges of the Storms River. Far below, like a flea on a rumpled green bedspread,
was Sleepkloof, the final hut. Beyond that, the sea.
On the tramp down the fynbos was way above our heads. Then the forest replaced it and swallowed us with the rustle of countless nodding leaves.
"There's still lots of food here," said Marinella that evening. "We just have to eat it." So the last great cook-in began. "Thank heavens we didn't have to carry it," someone sighed as we lay back later, stuffed. "I think I could get into this slackpacking."
Next morning and three kilometres later — on the fifth day — we were in the diesel-smelling, rackety confines of the Storms River Petroport. It was, to put it mildly, a nasty shock.
- Tips for slack-packing
- Pack your food into separate boxes for each night and label them according
to the huts they're intended for.
- Take cutlery, plates, mugs, matches, washing-up stuff, small pots, a gas stove
and kitchen equipment.
- You'll need a gas lamp and/or plenty of candles. A torch is essential.
- Clothing and sleeping bags should be placed in soft bags or backpacks waterproofed
with bin liners in case of rain.
- Carry a day pack with a waterproof jacket, trail map, camera, binoculars and
water bottle. A trekking pole is useful.
- The weather is very variable so always carry warm clothing and rain gear.
For more information, visit www.mtoecotourism.co.za.